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:root{--ink:#25232B;--ink-secondary:#56515F;--ink-label:#6A6474;--ink-muted:#77717F;--paper:#F9F9FC;--paper-raised:#FFF;--paper-inset:#F0EDF6;--violet:#5935B2;--violet-hover:#422288;--lagoon:#DCEAF0;--mango:#F1B448;--coral:#EF8770;--line:rgba(56,40,77,.16);--line-soft:rgba(56,40,77,.08);--line-strong:rgba(56,40,77,.42);--focus:#A24117;--control:#F0EDF6;--page:clamp(20px,4.5vw,72px)}*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:90px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:16px/1.6 DM,Arial,sans-serif}button,input,a{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}button,input{font:inherit}button,a{touch-action:manipulation}button{cursor:pointer;color:inherit}a{color:inherit;text-decoration:none}a:hover{text-decoration-thickness:1px}img{display:block;max-width:100%;height:auto}button{border:0;background:none}button:disabled{cursor:default;opacity:.38}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,input:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid 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0;color:var(--violet)}.story-endmark{font-family:Barlow;font-size:30px;color:var(--violet);text-align:center;padding:16px 0}.story-places,.long-read>.source-notes{margin:32px clamp(24px,6vw,84px) 0}.story-places>.eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.story-places .place-link{min-height:140px}.saved-detail h2{font-size:80px;color:var(--violet);margin:16px 0 24px}.saved-intro{font-size:17px;max-width:580px}.saved-note{font-size:11px;line-height:1.8;max-width:620px;margin:18px 0 32px}.saved-list{padding:0;margin:32px 0;list-style:none}.saved-list li{display:flex;gap:20px;align-items:center;padding:24px 0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.saved-order{font:18px Plex;color:var(--violet)}.saved-place{flex:1;min-width:0}.saved-place>a{font-size:23px;letter-spacing:-.035em;font-weight:500;line-height:1.2;display:block;margin-top:8px}.reorder{display:flex;gap:6px}.reorder button{border:1px solid 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@media(min-width:1500px){.lead-art img{aspect-ratio:1.5}.lead-copy h2{font-size:110px}}
@media(max-width:1100px){.lead-grid{grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.1fr;gap:28px}.lead-copy h2{font-size:76px}.lead-art img{aspect-ratio:1;min-height:0}.issue-stamp{display:none}.place-list{column-gap:28px}.place-code{display:none}.map-layout{gap:24px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr}.map-list .place-symbol{width:44px;height:52px}.map-list .place-copy h3{font-size:19px}.map-heading h3{font-size:42px}.fold-diagram{margin-top:-30px}.place-detail,.saved-detail{padding:32px}.detail-columns{gap:24px}.detail-columns .text-action{gap:12px}}
@media(max-width:760px){:root{--page:24px}.topbar{height:68px;gap:16px}.topbar nav{gap:24px;margin-left:auto;margin-right:0}.topbar nav a{font-size:12px}.edition-link{display:none}.small-mark{font-size:31px}.index-bracket{font-size:28px}.masthead-wrap{padding-top:24px}.masthead-wrap h1{font-size:clamp(64px,15.5vw,116px);gap:10px}.masthead-wrap h1 i{font-size:.6em}.edition-line{margin-top:18px;font-size:8px;padding:10px 0;align-items:flex-start}.edition-line span:first-child{max-width:130px}.edition-line span:last-child{display:none}.lead-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px;margin-top:28px}.lead-copy{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;column-gap:18px;align-items:start}.lead-copy>.eyebrow{grid-column:1/-1}.lead-copy h2{font-size:62px;margin:14px 0 0;grid-column:1}.lead-intro{font-size:13px;line-height:1.75;margin-top:20px;grid-column:2;grid-row:2}.lead-intro br{display:none}.lead-copy>.text-action{margin-top:16px;grid-column:1/-1;width:100%;font-size:12px;min-height:40px}.quiet-action{grid-column:1/-1;min-height:36px;font-size:11px}.lead-art img{aspect-ratio:1.5;min-height:0}.lead-art figcaption{font-size:8px}.reading{padding-top:48px;padding-bottom:48px}.section-line{align-items:flex-start;gap:24px;padding-top:14px;margin-bottom:20px}.section-line h2{font-size:19px}.section-line p{font-size:10px;max-width:110px;text-align:right}.story-grid{gap:20px;grid-template-columns:1fr}.story-card a{display:grid;grid-template-columns:130px 1fr;gap:18px;align-items:center}.story-art img{aspect-ratio:1;min-height:130px}.story-number{display:none}.story-card-copy{padding-top:0}.story-card-copy .meta{font-size:8px}.story-card h3{font-size:27px;margin:6px 0 8px}.story-card h3 span{font-size:17px}.story-card p:last-child{font-size:10px}.place-index{padding-top:40px;padding-bottom:48px;scroll-margin-top:68px}.index-head{align-items:flex-end;gap:24px;margin-bottom:28px}.index-head h2{font-size:56px;margin-top:14px}.index-head>p{font-size:11px;max-width:145px}.index-head>p br{display:none}.eyebrow{font-size:9px}.filter-panel{padding:20px;grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:20px}.filter-panel fieldset:last-child{padding-top:16px}.filter-panel legend,.search>span{font-size:9px}.search input{font-size:12px}.chips{gap:6px}.chips button{font-size:10px;min-height:40px;padding:9px 11px}.area-chips button{padding:7px 9px;min-height:40px}.results-bar{align-items:center;padding-top:20px}.results-bar>p{font-size:9px;max-width:110px}.view-switch button{font-size:9px;min-height:40px;padding:7px 10px}.place-list{grid-template-columns:1fr}.place-link{min-height:152px;padding-top:24px;gap:16px;padding-bottom:42px}.place-symbol{width:58px;height:62px}.place-copy h3{font-size:23px}.place-copy .meta{font-size:8px}.place-line{font-size:11px}.place-row>.save-button{min-height:36px;bottom:10px;font-size:10px}.place-arrow{font-size:22px}.map-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.map-paper{position:relative;top:auto}.map-heading{padding:20px}.map-heading h3{font-size:48px}.map-heading>p{font-size:10px}.fold-diagram{margin-top:-45px}.map-area{font-size:9px;gap:4px}.map-area b{width:24px;height:24px;font-size:10px}.map-area.inset{right:10px;padding:6px;max-width:112px}.map-key{font-size:8px;padding:0 20px 20px}.map-list .place-code{display:block}.map-list .place-symbol{display:none}.map-list .place-copy h3{font-size:22px}.map-list>h3{font-size:11px}.visit-note{font-size:10px;line-height:1.8;margin-top:20px}.take-away{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:40px;padding:48px 24px}.take-away h2{font-size:62px}.take-away>div>p:last-child{font-size:13px;max-width:280px}.edition-cover{max-width:320px;width:100%;padding:20px}.edition-cover>span{font-size:50px}body>footer{padding-top:32px;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:24px}.footer-mark{font-size:32px;grid-column:1/-1}.footer-mark+p{font-size:10px}footer nav a{font-size:10px;min-height:40px}.footer-context{font-size:9px}dialog{width:100%;max-width:100%;max-height:calc(100dvh - 12px);margin:12px 0 0;min-height:calc(100dvh - 12px)}.dialog-top{padding:8px 20px}.dialog-top>span{font-size:9px}.icon-button{width:40px;height:40px}.place-detail,.saved-detail{padding:28px 24px}.place-detail-header{padding-right:0;padding-top:0;min-height:0}.place-emblem{position:relative;width:80px;height:88px;margin-bottom:24px;gap:8px}.place-emblem svg{width:36px;height:36px}.place-emblem span{font-size:8px}.place-detail-header>h2{font-size:52px;margin-top:14px}.detail-line{font-size:16px}.detail-columns{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:32px}.detail-summary{font-size:18px;line-height:1.75}.detail-columns>div>p:not(.detail-summary){font-size:14px}.visit-card{padding:24px}.detail-columns .text-action{font-size:11px}.source-notes p{font-size:10px}.source-notes a{font-size:11px;min-height:44px}.long-read{padding-top:28px}.long-read>.meta,.long-read>h2,.long-read>.byline{margin-left:24px;margin-right:24px}.long-read>h2{font-size:62px;line-height:1.02}.long-read>figure img{max-height:none;aspect-ratio:1.25}.long-read>figure figcaption{padding-left:24px;padding-right:24px;font-size:8px}.reading-body{margin-top:24px}.reading-body p{font-size:15px;line-height:1.9}.reading-body p:first-child{font-size:19px;line-height:1.75}.story-places,.long-read>.source-notes{margin-left:24px;margin-right:24px}.story-places .place-symbol{display:none}.story-places .place-link{min-height:144px}.saved-detail h2{font-size:70px}.saved-intro{font-size:15px}.saved-note{font-size:10px}.saved-list li{align-items:flex-start;gap:12px;padding:20px 0;flex-wrap:wrap}.saved-order{font-size:13px;line-height:1.7}.saved-place{width:calc(100% - 40px)}.saved-place>a{font-size:23px;line-height:1.25}.saved-place .meta{font-size:8px}.reorder{margin-left:28px;gap:8px}.reorder button{width:44px;height:44px}.saved-actions{gap:12px}.saved-actions button{width:100%;min-height:48px}.empty-state{padding:48px 24px}.empty-state h3{font-size:22px}.empty-state p{font-size:12px}.notice{bottom:16px;font-size:11px}}
@media(max-width:370px){:root{--page:20px}.topbar{gap:10px}.topbar nav{gap:18px}.topbar nav a{font-size:11px}.masthead-wrap h1{font-size:15.2vw;gap:8px}.lead-copy h2{font-size:54px}.lead-intro{font-size:12px}.lead-grid{gap:20px}.story-card a{grid-template-columns:100px 1fr;gap:16px}.story-art img{min-height:110px;aspect-ratio:1}.story-card h3{font-size:24px}.index-head>p{max-width:110px;font-size:10px}.index-head h2{font-size:50px}.filter-panel{padding:16px}.place-copy h3{font-size:21px}.place-symbol{width:48px;height:56px}.place-line{font-size:10px}.map-heading h3{font-size:42px}.map-area{font-size:8px}.map-area.inset{max-width:100px}.fold-diagram{margin-top:-20px}.place-detail-header>h2{font-size:46px}.long-read>h2{font-size:54px}.saved-detail h2{font-size:64px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*::before,*::after{animation-duration:.01ms!important;transition-duration:.01ms!important;scroll-behavior:auto!important}}
@media print{@page{size:A4;margin:18mm}body>*:not(#print-sheet){display:none!important}dialog{display:none!important}#print-sheet{display:block;color:#25232B;font-family:DM,Arial;font-size:11px;line-height:1.6}#print-sheet>header{border-bottom:2px solid #5935B2;padding-bottom:18px;margin-bottom:24px}#print-sheet h1{font-size:48px;color:#5935B2}#print-sheet h2{font-family:DM;font-size:20px;margin:8px 0}#print-sheet article{break-inside:avoid;border-bottom:1px solid #ccc;padding:12px 0}#print-sheet article p:last-child{overflow-wrap:anywhere;font-size:9px}#print-sheet>footer{font-size:9px;margin-top:24px}}

/* Final legibility and hit-area pass. */
.fold-diagram{margin-top:0}.place-link{min-height:182px;padding-bottom:64px}.place-row>.save-button{min-height:44px;bottom:10px;padding:6px 12px;font-size:11px}.place-copy .meta{font-size:10px}.story-card-copy .meta{font-size:10px}.map-key{font-size:10px}.story-number{font-size:10px}.edition-line{font-size:10px}.map-area.inset{top:5%}.map-area small{font-size:8px}.chips button{font-size:12px}.area-chips button{font-size:11px}
@media(max-width:760px){.lead-art figcaption{font-size:9px}.eyebrow,.meta,.place-copy .meta,.story-card-copy .meta{font-size:10px}.edition-line{font-size:9px}.chips button{font-size:11px;min-height:44px}.filter-panel legend,.search>span{font-size:10px}.search input{font-size:13px}.view-switch button{font-size:10px;min-height:44px}.results-bar>p{font-size:10px}.place-link{min-height:174px;padding-bottom:64px}.place-line{font-size:12px}.visit-note{font-size:12px}.footer-context{font-size:10px}.map-heading>p{font-size:12px}.map-area{font-size:10px}.map-key{font-size:10px}.source-notes p{font-size:11px}.saved-note{font-size:12px}.saved-place .meta{font-size:10px}.story-card p:last-child{font-size:12px}.section-line p{font-size:12px}.place-code{font-size:10px}}

@media print{body{overflow:visible!important}}

@media(max-width:760px){.lead-copy{display:block}.lead-copy h2{font-size:clamp(54px,16vw,88px);margin:14px 0 16px}.lead-intro{font-size:14px;line-height:1.7;margin-top:0;max-width:400px}.lead-copy>.text-action{margin-top:16px;display:flex}.lead-copy>.quiet-action{display:flex}}

/* Refinement: first-screen action and editorial photography. */
@media(min-width:761px){.topbar{height:72px}.masthead-wrap{padding-top:24px}.masthead-wrap h1{font-size:clamp(90px,12vw,188px)}.edition-line{margin-top:20px;padding:10px 0}.lead-grid{margin-top:28px;gap:40px}.lead-copy h2{font-size:clamp(60px,5.5vw,88px);margin:10px 0 12px}.lead-intro{font-size:18px;line-height:1.5}.lead-copy>.text-action{margin-top:16px}.issue-stamp{display:none}.lead-art img{height:clamp(300px,50vh,440px);min-height:0;aspect-ratio:auto;object-fit:cover}}
.lead-copy>.text-action{background:var(--violet);border:0;color:#fff;padding:10px 20px;border-radius:3px;min-height:48px;gap:36px}.lead-copy>.text-action:hover{background:var(--violet-hover)}.lead-copy>.quiet-action{min-height:44px;text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px}.place-visual{width:116px;height:100px;position:relative;flex:none;overflow:hidden}.place-visual>img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}.place-visual>small{position:absolute;bottom:0;left:0;right:0;background:rgba(249,249,252,.94);color:var(--ink);font:8px/1.4 Plex;padding:5px 7px}.place-link{min-height:198px;gap:16px;padding-bottom:62px}.place-code{display:none}.place-copy h3{font-size:23px}.place-line{display:block;max-width:260px;line-height:1.65}.map-list .place-visual{width:88px;height:92px}.map-list .place-copy h3{font-size:21px}.place-detail-header{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1.15fr 1fr;gap:32px;padding-right:0;align-items:start}.place-detail-heading h2{font-family:Barlow;font-size:clamp(42px,4.7vw,64px);line-height:1.04;margin:14px 0 18px}.place-photo{min-width:0}.place-photo img{width:100%;height:230px;object-fit:cover}.place-photo .photo-cca{object-position:50% 28%}.place-photo figcaption{font-size:10px;line-height:1.7;margin-top:10px;color:var(--ink-label)}.place-photo figcaption a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:2px;color:var(--violet)}.place-photo figcaption span{display:block;font-size:9px;margin-top:4px}.place-photo.graphic img{background:var(--lagoon);object-fit:contain}.profile-quick-actions{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:20px;flex-wrap:wrap;margin-top:24px}.profile-quick-actions .save-button{min-height:44px;min-width:110px;font-size:12px}.profile-quick-actions>a{font-size:11px;text-decoration:underline;min-height:44px;display:flex;align-items:center}.detail-columns{align-items:start}.visit-card{position:sticky;top:88px}.place-focus{margin-top:28px;padding:24px;background:var(--paper-inset)}.place-focus>h3{font-family:DM;font-size:21px;line-height:1.3;text-transform:none;color:var(--ink);margin:12px 0}.place-focus>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:14px;line-height:1.85}.place-focus>a{font-size:11px;color:var(--violet);text-decoration:underline;display:block;min-height:44px;padding-top:16px;line-height:1.7}.visit-note>a{color:var(--violet);text-decoration:underline;display:inline-block;min-height:44px;padding:12px 0}.detail-actions>a:last-child{color:#fff;text-decoration:none;justify-content:center;font-size:12px}
@media(max-width:1100px) and (min-width:761px){.place-visual{width:88px;height:98px}.place-copy h3{font-size:21px}.place-line{font-size:11px}.place-detail-header{gap:24px}.place-photo img{height:210px}}
@media(max-width:760px){.place-visual{width:88px;height:98px}.place-visual>small{font-size:8px;padding:4px}.place-link{min-height:190px;gap:14px;padding-bottom:60px}.place-copy h3{font-size:22px}.place-line{font-size:11px;line-height:1.7}.map-list .place-code{display:none}.map-list .place-visual{width:80px;height:96px}.place-detail-header{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px}.place-detail-heading h2{font-size:50px;margin-top:12px}.profile-quick-actions{margin-top:20px;gap:16px}.place-photo img{height:220px}.place-photo .photo-cca{height:260px;object-position:50% 30%}.place-photo figcaption{font-size:10px}.place-photo figcaption span{font-size:9px}.detail-summary{font-size:18px}.visit-card{position:static}.place-focus{padding:20px}.place-focus>h3{font-size:20px}.place-focus>p:not(.eyebrow){font-size:14px}.lead-copy>.text-action{width:max-content;max-width:100%;font-size:12px}.lead-copy>.quiet-action{font-size:12px}}
@media(max-width:370px){.place-visual{width:72px;height:90px}.place-copy h3{font-size:20px}.place-line{font-size:11px}.place-visual>small{font-size:7px}.map-list .place-visual{width:72px}.place-detail-heading h2{font-size:44px}.profile-quick-actions>a{font-size:10px}}

.saved-place>a{text-decoration:underline;text-underline-offset:4px;text-decoration-thickness:1px}